potty for pastéis

by hannah williams

From the outside Pastéis de Belém looks no different to the million other cafes nestling on the corners of Lisbon’s busy streets, undeniably dilapidated but still in possession of a certain colonial chic.

But Pastéis de Belém is not like any other coffee shop. It is birthplace to an institution as important to Portuguese national identity as a bag of vinegar-soaked chips is to Blackpool seafront.

The pastel de nata or custard tart has been baked in Belem for nearly 200 years. And while tasty replications can be picked up in any street cafe or bakery across Portugal, the original are still the best.

Behind a modest frontage, opposite a tram stop for the nearby Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, lies a warren of lofty rooms, replete with original stone flooring, elegant blue tiling and ceilings high enough to make your nose bleed.

Yet despite its ample statistics, the rambling rooms of the renowned bakery are perpetually packed with cake-hungry punters from across the world who flock in droves to taste the perfect pastry and succulent custard fillings.

So what’s so great about pasteis?

Take your pick; from the thin yet sturdy sweet pastry that cracks in your mouth but doesn’t crumble to the weighty rush of warm creamy custard that follows filling your senses with sweet delight or the sharp cinnamon dusting that rounds off the mouthful leaving a warm spicy feeling on the tip of the taste buds.

Perhaps it’s the grandpa-esque waiters who shuffle round in smart black pinnies ever alert to the inevitable requests for ‘two more cakes please’ or the nautical brickwork that makes it easy to imagine Vasco de Gama shuffling down a tart or two before embarking on his latest naval conquest. Whatever it is that makes pasteis taste so great, it makes it happen tenfold in Belém.

That’s not that useful if you live in Dalston though. So how can you recreate that Lisbon magic without venturing outside London?

Canela in Soho is a good bet for all things Brazilian including pasteis and Cafe Lisboa near Portobello Road is another safe bet.

But if you really want to treat the taste buds nothing beats Belém.

ginger and orange zest madeleines

by audrey roger

Madeleines are one of the easiest things you can bake and they take hardly any time to make. I love them for their bite size smallness. They’re great with a nice strong cup of tea. This recipe is inspired by one I found on a French food blog Marmiton.org. It makes the lightest madeleines you’ve ever tasted. I’ve added orange zest and grated ginger to give them bit of kick and sweet flavouring.
You can find madeleines moulds in any kind of specialist cookware shop or on Amazon.co.uk. The best ones are the silicone ones because once the madeleines are cooked you can pop them straight out of the molds.

preparation time: 10 min
total cooking time: 36 min

ingredients (for 18-20 madeleines):
3 eggs
100 g sugar
110 g flour
1 tsp baking powder
90 g salted butter
zest of 1 orange
1 tsp grated fresh ginger

Preheat the oven at 220°C.

1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Leave it to cool.
2. Whisk the eggs and the sugar together in a bowl.
3. Add the flour and baking powder. Then the melted butter (the butter will have separated in two, one layer of yellow liquid and a creamy white liquid underneath; leave the creamy white bit out) and orange zest and grated ginger.
4. Fill the madeleines moulds up to 3/4 each with the mixture. Cook for 12 minutes each time at 200°C.
5. Enjoy with a nice cup of tea.

smoked rainbow trout and spinach quiche

by audrey roger

Spinach is in season at the moment (check out Ridley Road market) and is great as a salad or mixed with fish like rainbow trout (which is also in season, have a look at your local fishmonger shop). I’ve taken smoked rainbow trout which has a much stronger flavour and tastes great in quiche but you could just as well make it with fresh fish instead of smoked if you prefer.

pastry:
200 g flour
100 g salted butter
water

quiche filling:
4 eggs
150 ml double cream
150 ml milk
150 g smoked rainbow trout ( or smoked salmon if not)
handful fresh spinach
pepper

Preheat the oven at 200°C.

making the pastry:
1. Mix the flour and butter together in a big bowl and slowly add a bit of cold water. You should obtain a big ball of pastry that stays together and stretches without it being either too sticky or too dry. If you add too much water it will be too sticky so I always add the water bit by bit until it’s the right texture.
2. put the pastry ball onto a clean surface and stretch it out with the rolling pin until it is roughly the size of a big quiche dish.
3. Butter the quiche dish and sprinkle a very thin layer of flour over it. This will make it easier to take the quiche out from the dish one it is baked.
4. Place the pastry inside the dish and stretch the pastry by pressing with your fingers until it covers the whole dish. Make small holes all over the pastry with a fork.

making the rest:
1. In a bowl, whisk the cream, eggs and milk.
2. Add small squares of smoked rainbow trout and some shredded fresh spinach. Add pepper. No need to salt as the smoked rainbow trout provides all the salt you need in this dish.
3. Pour the mixture over the pastry.
4. Cook in the oven for 30 min at 200°C.
5. Serve with fresh lettuce and vinaigrette.

vinaigrette, French style:
This is the vinaigrette we make in France and that I’ve always seen my mom make.
proportions:
3 Tbsp sunflower or vegetable oil
1 Tbsp red wine vinegar
1/2 tsp Dijon mustard
salt
pepper