by hannah williams
From the outside Pastéis de Belém looks no different to the million other cafes nestling on the corners of Lisbon’s busy streets, undeniably dilapidated but still in possession of a certain colonial chic.
But Pastéis de Belém is not like any other coffee shop. It is birthplace to an institution as important to Portuguese national identity as a bag of vinegar-soaked chips is to Blackpool seafront.
The pastel de nata or custard tart has been baked in Belem for nearly 200 years. And while tasty replications can be picked up in any street cafe or bakery across Portugal, the original are still the best.
Behind a modest frontage, opposite a tram stop for the nearby Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, lies a warren of lofty rooms, replete with original stone flooring, elegant blue tiling and ceilings high enough to make your nose bleed.
Yet despite its ample statistics, the rambling rooms of the renowned bakery are perpetually packed with cake-hungry punters from across the world who flock in droves to taste the perfect pastry and succulent custard fillings.
So what’s so great about pasteis?
Take your pick; from the thin yet sturdy sweet pastry that cracks in your mouth but doesn’t crumble to the weighty rush of warm creamy custard that follows filling your senses with sweet delight or the sharp cinnamon dusting that rounds off the mouthful leaving a warm spicy feeling on the tip of the taste buds.
Perhaps it’s the grandpa-esque waiters who shuffle round in smart black pinnies ever alert to the inevitable requests for ‘two more cakes please’ or the nautical brickwork that makes it easy to imagine Vasco de Gama shuffling down a tart or two before embarking on his latest naval conquest. Whatever it is that makes pasteis taste so great, it makes it happen tenfold in Belém.
That’s not that useful if you live in Dalston though. So how can you recreate that Lisbon magic without venturing outside London?
Canela in Soho is a good bet for all things Brazilian including pasteis and Cafe Lisboa near Portobello Road is another safe bet.
But if you really want to treat the taste buds nothing beats Belém.
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